Tips and Tricks for low sugar preserves

With only 4-6 weeks left before strawberries are in season here in Ontario and with the rhubarb in my garden growing noticeably with each passing day, I have been starting to think about all of the jams and jellies I will make this summer. I have also been thinking more and more about the sugar that goes into each of them. I have done a post in the past about the role of sugar in preserving because I think it is important for people to understand that it actually has a very important role and that it isn’t just part of the recipe because people expect jam to be sweet. Generally the fruit is sweet enough.

But even though sugar plays a role, there are options out there for people who want to reduce the amount of sugar in the preserves they make at home and there are a couple of great blog posts written that include some pretty fabulous resources as well as a couple of pretty tasty recipes that you can start off your low sugar preserving with.

Aimee does a great job in this post of outlining resources that are available to those that are interested in learning more about low sugar preserving and she includes a pretty tasty recipe for Apple Butter

http://simplegoodandtasty.com/2011/11/15/low-sugar-preserving-for-the-jam-lover

Dr. Williams overview on Pamona’s Pectin and how it works in low sugar preserving as well as her recipe for Organic low sugar strawberry jam makes this post well worth the read.

http://foodsforlonglife.blogspot.ca/2009/06/how-to-make-organic-low-sugar.html

If you are interested in learning more about low sugar preserving, want to see Pamona's Pectin in action and feel like trying your hand at it first hand, I am offering a class at The Depanneur on Monday, May 27^th. It will cover the following:

Understanding the role of sugar in preserving is an important first step to understanding how you can reduce the sugar in your jam without sacrificing quality and taste. In this very hands-on class, we will look closely at the role sugar plays and make a full sugar as well as a low sugar jam so you can examine the difference in taste, texture and consistency. You will walk out of this class with the basic understanding of jar sterilization, safe canning practices and important do’s and don’ts of canning and preserving. You will also get a copy of both recipes to take home and at least 1 jar of jam each.

Guest post - Marmalade Goat's Cheese Ice Cream

Thank you Allen B for this fabulous guest post. I love the innovative way you used Manning Canning Marmalade!

I love raspberries. Always have. Always  will. And Christine’s Raspberry Jam takes me back to the raspberry bushes of my Saskatchewan childhood every time I open the jar. In fact, it was my love affair with her jam that led me to try – and love - her marmalades; the beautifully bittersweet (and oh-so-hard-to-get) Grapefruit and the bold, punchy Orange with Vanilla.

In fact, it was over breakfast with the Orange and Vanilla marmalade, thinking about Christine and James’ visit later in the week, when the idea for the perfect dessert hit me!  The creamy tang of a goat cheese ice cream would complement the dark tart and sweetness of Manning Canning’s Orange marmalade brilliantly. Of course, I thought, a heavy drizzle of a Bourbon Caramel Sauce would take it all the way to epic!

Judging from the look on everyone’s face as we dove into those bowls of creamy, gooey goodness, I was right. Nailed it.

Orange Marmalade and Goat Cheese Ice Cream with Bourbon Caramel Sauce

Jeni Britton Bauer of Jeni's Splendid Ice Creams in Columbus, OH has perfected an eggless ice cream recipe. Buy her book and make your own ice cream. You’ll be happy. This is adapted from her basic vanilla recipe.

MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART

2 cups milk
4 tsp. cornstarch
1 1/4 cups heavy cream
2/3 cup sugar
2 tbsp. light corn syrup
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
3 tbsp. goat cheese, softened

1 tsp. vanilla paste or extract

4 tbsp. Manning Canning Orange and Brown Sugar Marmalade (or Old Fashioned Marmalade)

INSTRUCTIONS

In a bowl, stir together 1/4 cup milk and the cornstarch; set slurry aside. In a 4-qt. saucepan, whisk together remaining milk and the cream, sugar, syrup, and salt; bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook for 4 minutes; stir in slurry. Return to a boil and cook, stirring, until thickened, about 2 minutes. Place cream cheese in a bowl and pour in 1/4 cup hot milk mixture; whisk until smooth. Then whisk in remaining milk mixture. Pour mixture into a plastic bag; seal, and submerge in a bowl of ice water until chilled.

While ice cream mixture is cooling, drop marmalade onto a cutting board and chop long strands of orange rind into smaller pieces. Refrigerate until needed.

Pour mixture into an ice cream maker; process according to manufacturer's instructions. Transfer ½ of ice cream mixture to a storage container and, using ½ of the marmalade, drop 3-4 dollops randomly on top of the mixture. Transfer the remaining ice cream mixture to the container and, using the same technique, drop the remaining marmalade in several spots on top of the mixture. Run you spoon through the spots of marmalade to distribute it through the ice cream mixture. You only want to swirl the marmalade through so one or two swipes through the mixture should do it. Do not over stir!   Freeze until set. 

Serve with a generous helping of Martha Stewart’s ridiculously perfect Caramel Bourbon Vanilla Sauce. And then roll your eyes to the back of your head and smile.

What is Pectin and why is it used in preserving?

Did you know that pectin is a water-soluble substance that is found in the tissues of all fruits and is a natural thickening and jelling agent.Different fruit have different amounts of pectin.

Under ripe fruit contains more pectin than ripe fruit but the flavor of under ripe fruit is not as suitable for jams and soft spreads. The amount of pectin in fresh fruit varies depending on the type and variety and freshness.

How it works...and this is where we get a little geeky ;)

When pectin molecules come in contact with fruit acid, chainlike structures in the pectin become charged and they begin to fold in on themselves. These folded chains trap water from the fruit or juice and form a gel. The introduction of sugar increases the strength of pectin, allowing it to trap more water and increasing its ability to jell. This is why it is important to use the right ration of fruit, pectin, sugar and acid. Too much sugar will result in too firm a set, too little and it will be runny. Jams made without added pectin must be cooked for longer period of time and end up thickening from the evaporation of the juice rather than from the process of jelling.

Excessive heat or high heat for an extended period of time during cooking will cause the pectin to break down and prevent jelling from occurring. If the length of boiling time is not controlled you may damage the pectin and end up with a runny jam.

Commercial Pectin is not evil

It comes in 2 forms; liquid or powdered. They are NOT interchangeable. Each requires a different balance of fruit, sugar, and acid to obtain the desired set. Powdered pectin is added to the fruit BEFORE cooking, while liquid pectin is added to the heated fruit and sugar mixture near the end of the cooking process.

Both forms are 100& natural and are derived from either tart apples or the white pith found under the colored peel of citrus fruits. The pith tends to have a sour flavor and it tends to be used in marmalades.

You can make your own pectin but be aware that you may have inconsistent results as you will be unable to control the concentration of pectin. Also, home made pectin has an extremely short life span and should be used within 24 hours.

I prefer to use store bought pectin to ensure consistent results when making jam.

Canning without pectin

When making jam or jelly without adding commercial pectin, at least ¼ of the fruit must be under ripe in order for it to set. But always remember, that this high proportion of under ripe fruit can change the flavor and texture of the final product. It must also be cooked for a longer period of time.

Happy canning!

Foraging for Ramps

This morning we went to Morningside Park to check out the ramp situation. I say by this time next weekend they will be ready and I will be pickling them. If you want a jar, get your requests in fast ;).

The forest is really starting to explode with new growth. Betty was in heaven and took as many opportunities as possible to sit down, roll in the old leaves and relax. She was too busy rolling around to notice several deer spying on us. Look closely at the forest photo below and see if you can spot one of them. It is rather amazing at how well they blend in with their surroundings at this time of year.

We picked a small bag of ramps which we will add to our salad at dinner tomorrow night, but I can guarantee I will be out there again next weekend!

Mother's Day Gift Ideas

Mother’s Day always seems to pose a few challenges for me. My mom lives in Alberta so the usual dilemma of where to go for dinner, who’s bringing what, etc don’t bubble up to the surface for me. The challenge is always ‘what do I get my mom for Mother’s Day?’. She is and always has been the kind of woman who when she needs or wants anything tends to simply go out and buy it for herself.

I have four sisters, so weeks (sometimes months) before the actual date, the emails and phone calls commence. “Hey Dena, got any ideas what to get mom?” “No, perhaps Debbie does.” “Hey Deb, what are you getting mom?” “Oh, we’re taking her for brunch.”. Darn…that is not an option for me. Time to call Yvonne. And so it goes, every year.

 Now I am sure a lot of people can make the statement I am about to make, but when I say it I mean it all the way from the tips of my toes. My mom ROCKS! I could make a big long list in all of the ways that she rocks. But for brevity, I will keep it short so as to not bore you.

• When my sister and I took a year off to travel to SE Asia, she met us 3 separate times. She climbed mountains, rode elephants, sat on the back of a scooter, went snorkelling, slept overnight on the deck of a boat, walked amongst komodo dragons and basically tried everything we were willing to try

• She always has time to listen to your problems. She might not always have the solution but she always has the time

• She makes the most amazing quilts, she crochets, she knits, she bakes, she cooks. What can’t she do?

• She is my friend…not just my mom

 I try to show her every day that I love her and I certainly tell her each time we speak. So I don’t feel intense pressure on Mother’s Day to prove this to her. In fact, I am certain she knows it. But still, Mother’s Day can not pass without some form of recognition of her amazingness.

 I remember being a kid and thinking that the best gift I could give her was something I had made myself. Whether it was a drawing, something I had made out of popsicle sticks or pieces of macaroni. Each time, my mom would gasp and tell me how much she loved it. On several occasions, years later, I would stumble upon my work of art saved and stored in a cupboard or drawer in the house.

 This year, my mom will be visiting me just after Mother’s Day so I plan on having a bunch of homemade wonders for her to enjoy. If you want to return to the idea of local home made gifts for Mother’s Day, there is no need to rush out and buy a box of macaroni and crazy glue ;). Manning Canning has gift baskets that you can custom order to include the mixture of products you most want.